Flower shooting tips

Many people wonder how I can spend so much effort on flowers. Personally I find them a very worthy subject for my camera. Personally I lean toward the closeup to macro level and less toward the wide field of many flowers.

Tips:

- Subject matter -

Pick your subject based on some intent. Don't just take pictures without thinking first. There are many main themes one could chose when shooting flowers.
Whenever possible look for flowers with interest. Not all flowers are created equal. Scope out almost every flower in the garden before shooting, or, while scoping shoot whatever interesting flowers you find.

- Shape -

Think of this as an independent thing and it will reward you. Sometimes if you go through the checklist in your head while framing you can produce an image light years ahead of just winging it. Treat shape like it's a completely different photograph. Frame for shape. Observe negative shapes, see if there are better ways of framing it to avoid trapped white space and other design problems. Treating your photographs as exercises in making an art print will improve your photographs instantly.

- Color -

When thinking of color chose settings that support what attracted you to the scene in the first place. If you are impressed with how the color makes you feel, you need to frame your image to express exactly that. Nothing wrong with a big yellow flower occupying the entire frame, if you find that to be the 'flowerness' that drew you there.
REQUIRED- become very familiar with basic color theory. What colors work well together and which one's clash. This is not something nature automatically censors for you. You need to create artwork that doesn't automatically look like a messy palette. Yeah, the flowers looked that way naturally. Well, the difference between an outstanding image and recording the girlfriend's garden with an instamatic are the intentional choices we make behind the lense. Be choosy. Choose a pleasing palette, or a jarring one, but be clear about intent when you take the picture, never just take it because that's where the camera happens to be pointing.

- Focus -

Your ultimate tool. Become familiar with the two primary ways one can control focus. Through focusing the lense (duh) and through your fstop. You should do some tests in a controlled setting to become familiar with difference between f2.8 and f11 regarding DOF for your lense. Neat trick- put your camera on a tripod and photograph a ruler with every major stop. (1.2, 1.7, 2, 5.6, etc) Ensure the midpoint (6") is also 6 inches away from the film plane. (and of course FOCUS on the 6" point) Not required but useful for remembering later. In this manner you can quickly size up a flower in the field, oh, this one is at least 3 inches deep, I know I need at least f11 to get the whole thing. Then focus on the middle and voila, expected results are great. The DOF meter on your lense is your friend. (not covered here) Learn how to use it and what it means.
http://www.panoguide.com/howto/panoramas/hyperfocal.jsp
Focus is also a storyteller. You can single out any element on a flower (or anything else for that matter) with focus. Once mastered DOF can be use to paint exactly what you want and less of something to fight against. Which leads to the next point.

- Tripod -

This is not optional. Unless you are shooting outdoors during the bright sun, which in itself isn't something you should do with every shot... you will need your tripod. I know, it's a pain, but it's how you get the shots! Most times, when your subject is not in direct sunlight, and you stop down the aperture to get the DOF you require you will see your shutter dip dangerously into the shake red zone. For me, with a 50mm that's anything below 90th/s. So if you are hand holding the camera you do the only thing you can, you either bump up the ISO or you reduce your aperture. So, if your two stops shy, you will end up with a shake free image but with an f-stop in the 5.6 range! That will truncate your DOF by INCHES. So... TRIPOD. Clearly framing fast moving insects with a tripod can be an exercise in frustration, but it can be done. Flowers on the other hand have a less active life and can easily be captured with a tripod. The cautionary tale here is a windy day. You have to then fight shallow DOF AND flower sway blur. So, it's a balancing act.
=> solution that works most of the time.
ISO400
ideal DOF - 1 stop (almost perfect)
whatever the light leaves you for shutter... usually 60th or so.

- Lighting - Nature can throw almost anything at you. There are really no bad lighting days. I'm found on this site critiquing images shot in the blazing sun. Though that might work, or rather can work for some of the 'shape' shots you have in mind, it doesn't work well for shots about a flower's delicate nature, or it's color.
Basic light and contrast - general rule of thumb. Sunny out? Shadows or hilights will be BLOWN OUT. Shady or rainy, you get the entire 5 to 8 stop range of your digital camera. Sometimes inky black shadows are perfect for a shot. The are however not good if it's not what you intend. Experiment with different lighting and become familiar with the language and feelings each kind of lighting can give you.
>Early morning and and late evening the light is very low and directional, you get a lot of blue lighting from the sky.
Shoot: Anything with emotion, sunset/sunrise warm light already has built in nostalgia, use it. Also, there is a fair bit of ambient light since the direct light is at least 2 or 3 stops less intense then noonday sun, so the direct light and the fill light are close enough together to expose them both at the same time.
>Mid day sun. direct sun from high angle, produces harsh shadows (less bouncy light, more parallel direct light which produces sharper and deeper shadows)
Shoot: Shape related photos or dramatic images where black shadows are good, or sharp lines are desirable.
>Cloudy Daytime: Consider this the primo shooting for lush color and soft shadows. People, cars, buildings, and even flowers are easiest to shoot. Combine cloudy with afternoon sun and you have a nature built soft box looking for prizewinning shots.

- General Tips -

Shoot first... ask questions later. In the age of digital photography, there is no excuse for shutter phobia. If you see a scene shoot it... THEN get closer/move/reframe. You will thank yourself later. With animals or bugs. As soon as you frame something remotely acceptable, shoot, then get closer/tripod it, etc. If the insect flies away, at least you can crop down something to show online!

Don't be afraid to lie in the dirt. Don't go shooting with Gucci pants. Don't wear a ball cap unless you are willing to wear it backwards. Bring a towel. Aurther Dent was right, don't go anywhere without a towel. Rain and camera's don't mix, so be prepared to dry something, even you. When shooting a scene be sure to explore all the angels. In many cases after shooting something medium cool, you lower to the ground to discover the major cool. Real photographers don't have a problem climbing light polls or hanging upside down to get the shot, because when it's all said and done there is nothing worse then the "I would have had X shot if only I wasn't afraid to look stupid to that eight year old with the ice cream:

Be friendly and carry a pen and model release. Prize winning shots don't walk around with signs pinned to their backs. You make them. If you make one, then have no way of selling/distributing due to the pesky LAW you will kick your own butt all around the block. The friendly part can get you gigs. If that's something you do. Don't be afraid to answer the typical "are you shooting pictures" with actual information about what you are doing. People often have interest and you will know right away if thier eyes glaze over if it's genuine. :)

Get 2 or 3 more digital memory cards then you 'think' you need. Come on, they are dirt cheap now. Really can't afford $30 for a 2GB card? How about walking around with full memory cards when the aliens invade? Try that one on for size.

(shown with poor tripod vs. good tripod scenes)
Get a good tripod. plus, GET A GOOD TRIPOD. A heavy duty tripod is often overlooked in favour of them lense things. Don't. A good tripod will make the difference between the following.
1. tripod blown over camera smashed - tripod doesn't move.
2. tripod vibrates when you breath/blurry pictures - tripod dampens vibrations/award winning photographs!
3. tripod hard to set up/panorama looks like dog's breakfast - tripod has a built in level and is easy to adjust/perfect panoramas every time!
4. People mock you and laugh behind your back - people want to talk to you because they assume your not a tourist.
5. plane flying overhead knocks over tripod - hanging your camera bag from the tripod pillar saves the day.

(shown with safeway bag vs. professional camera bag scenes)
Get a good camera bag. This isn't as important then a tripod, but it's an often overlooked but much needed component.
1. 4 SD cards pop out and down the storm drain when your running - SD cards snug as a bug in the special zippered pocket.
2. gear breaks when banged against the tripod - tripod lashed TO the camera bag, man I was tired of carrying that thing.
3. Where is my grey card? - Front pocket on the flap.
4. lenses scratched - lenses in their own little homes, of course not scratched.
5. fell down, oww. oh look digital camera broken - bag bounced down the stairs, but gear is OK OMG!

OK, enough is enough. brain overload. any questions please msg me.

regards all, and keep snapping!

IONclad